Wines and Insights: Highlights from Libby's South Australian Wine Tour

Libby's Immersive Wine Tourism Adventure in South Australia

Recently, I (Libby Cupitt) had the extraordinary opportunity to immerse myself in the world of wine tourism in South Australia, thanks to an invitation from Wine Tourism Australia. I was joined by notable industry expert Carolyn Martin and her son Glenn from Creation Wines in South Africa to share our insights with wine business students and industry colleagues. Our guide and organiser, Robin Shaw fromWine Tourism Australia, crafted a journey that was as educational as it was delightful.

Adelaide'sNational Wine Centre

Our adventure began in the bustling heart of Adelaide at the National Wine Centre, where the General Manager, Simon Burgess, along with Sommelier Andrew Bruce and Wine Relations Manager Alana Kaye, welcomed us warmly. They ushered us through the centre's expansive facilities, including Australia's largest tasting room. This impressive space houses 120 wines representing Australia’s diverse wine regions. The educational tours offered here are a treasure trove for anyone eager to learn about Australia's rich winemaking heritage. Over a delightful lunch served with wines from state-of-the-art Enomatic servers, I enjoyed a superb 2016 Luke Lambert Chardonnay, setting a high bar for the following days.

University of Adelaide

At the University of Adelaide, we were welcomed by Professor Dr Armando Corsi, who introduced us to his class of master's students studying a Master's in Wine Business. Alongside Carolyn and Emily Hay from Paragon Wine Estates, I presented on our business focusing on cellar door management, direct marketing, and wine tourism. I was particularly inspired by the story of Creation Wines, notable for its community initiatives and how they nurture their team and give back to the community. Emily provided insights into how corporate brands approach wine marketing, emphasising that the experience at each cellar door must reflect the unique identity of the wine brand—it is not a one-size-fits-all model.

Oliver's Taranga

The next day, we ventured into McLaren Vale, starting at Oliver's Taranga Vineyards and bulldog Margi greeted us at the door. We were hosted by the dynamic winemaker Corrina Wright, a Champion in the Women in Wine Association. She led us on the Taranga Terroir Tour, a glass of Fiano in hand, aboard ‘Ollie’ the Golf Buggy. We explored the family's heritage sites, learning about McLaren Vale's geology and climate influences on their sustainable viticulture. Tasting wines right next to their source vines was a highlight, truly connecting us to the land and the labour of love that goes into each bottle. Corrina shared the family's stories, including tasting a delightful Mencia rosé. Mark van Gestel, the Cellar Door Manager, continued our wine tasting with their house-blended olive oil, which was delicious.

Their cellar door, which underwent a significant renovation in 2020, transformed from a small heritage stone cottage into a spacious tasting venue with a large deck. This space hosts monthly long-table lunches and celebrations for their wine club members, creating a vibrant community atmosphere. Sign me up!

Gemtree Wines

At Gemtree Wines, we started with a refreshing taste of their rosé while Karly Craik, our knowledgeable host, explained the history behind their focus on dynamic organic wines. We strolled down to their biodynamic organic native gardens for a brief educational class on biodynamics before returning to the tasting room for more exquisite wines. We then explored the Eco Trail adjacent to the vineyards, a protected bushland where you might spot emus, kangaroos, and koalas. Set up with a playground and picnic facilities, it's perfect for family outings. The highlight was a luxurious picnic prepared by the Salopian Inn, featuring a three-course feast that beautifully complemented the Fiano wines we grabbed from the Cellar Door. 

Wirra Wirra Vineyards

Later, we visited Wirra Wirra for a networking event, but first, we embarked on a historic tour of the venue. Meaning “amongst the gum trees,” Wirra Wirra lived up to its name when we spotted a koala in the car park upon arrival. There’s so much history at Wirra Wirra, which you can really feel as you move through the barrel rooms. They have a great space with a deli on one side and a large cellar door on the other for a seated tasting experience. The Shiraz Revolution experience allowed us to taste Shiraz from different parts of McLaren Vale, each grown in distinct soil types. Chocolate pairings added a playful and educational twist to the tasting, enhancing our understanding of Shiraz, a key varietal of the region.

McLaren Vale Grape, Wine & Tourism Association

An evening for the McLaren Vale Grape, Wine & Tourism Association members was organised by their Wine Tourism Committee; they meet regularly to share insights and network with cellar door staff across the region. Everyone who attended brought a bottle of wine to share, which was lovely, so I got to try a few wines from wineries we wouldn't get to on our trip. Carolyn and I presented the opportunities and challenges for our businesses within the wine tourism space. Following the presentations, we had a Panel Discussion with Robin Shaw. The exchange was vibrant and insightful, and the engagement from our industry peers was heartening. We found much common ground despite the differences in our operational environments (Mclaren Vale has over 100 Cellar Doors!). 

We retreated to our beautiful Accommodation atVale 194; if you’re ever looking for a stunning three-bedroom place to stay in McLaren Vale, I can’t recommend this place high enough. It was beautiful, well-equipped, and so stylish. It was stunning. 

Yangarra Estate

The following day, we discovered Yangarra Estate, where the beauty of their new cellar door matched the elegance of their wines. After tasting a stunning 2022 Blanc wine the previous evening, we had high expectations, and Yangarra did not disappoint. The new cellar door's design and the panoramic views were breathtaking. Our knowledgeable host, Suzy guided us through the winery, showing off their advanced techniques and the impressive ceramic eggs used in wine production. The tasting session was spectacular, with theHigh Sands Grenache,2021 Roux Beauté RoussanneandOvitelli Blancbeing standout experiences. I was shocked to learn that the wine-tasting cost started at $15 per person, an incredible value. 

D'Arenberg Cube

Our visit to the d'Arenberg Cube was nothing short of surreal. Meeting Chester Osborn in front of the d'Arenberg Cube, he encouraged us to embrace the sounds of the vineyards and to stumble into the Cube as though we just had a very long lunch (the mirrors as you enter distort your vision and make you feel inebriated). Chester guided us through the Cube, each level an intertwined universe of artistic expression and winemaking philosophy. The sensory overload was balanced beautifully with a lunch at d'Arry's Verandah, where the quality of food and wine was exceptional, highlighted by an unforgettable lobster bisque. Sadly, we didn't have time for dessert, but we saw a passionfruit soufflé going out that you would be mad not to order if you had the chance; it looked incredible. 

Chalk Hill Wines

Tom Harvey welcomed us to Chalk Hill Wines, where the combination of fine wines, a relaxed atmosphere, and panoramic views created a memorable tasting experience. Tom shared his vision for the future of this vibrant estate, known for its beautiful views and laid-back atmosphere. Our tasting session, especially the Vermentino, was a highlight, showcasing the fresh and innovative approach of Chalk Hill.

Dandelion Vineyards

Our visit to Dandelion Vineyards was a revelation, pairing delicious wines with perfectly matched dishes in their recently unveiled Wonder Room. This venue quickly became a highlight of my wine tour. Carolyn likened this wine and food pairing experience to the offerings at Creation Wines in South Africa, known for their meticulous pairings and a significant complement to Dandelion. 

The Wonder Room is architecturally stunning, with floor-to-ceiling windows that provide sweeping views of McLaren Vale’s lush landscapes. Inside, Dandelion offers a tiered tasting menu, with options priced at $33, $66, and $99, allowing guests to choose the intensity and exclusivity of their wine-tasting experience. For those seeking something truly special, an upgrade is available to sample some of their most exclusive and premium wines—an opportunity not to be missed. It should also be noted that your Cellar Door Manager, Rhiannon, will guide you on an experience that suits your preferences, whites only and Shiraz only (no problem!). 

The food offerings at Dandelion are crafted to complement the wines perfectly, creating a harmonious blend of flavours designed to enhance the wine-tasting experience rather than replace a traditional meal. We commenced with theEnchanted Garden Riesling, sourced from Eden Valley, paired with whipped cheese and honey on a freshly baked milk bun, the food combination highlighting the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity in the Riesling. One standout dish was a beef taco paired with Dandelion’s Red Earth Queen Shiraz. The interplay between the beef's robust flavours and the Shiraz's vibrant notes was transformative, elevating the wine to new heights of flavour and complexity. In addition to their stunning wines, Dandelion also features a rare Australian-produced Pedro Ximenez, a legacy wine first fortified by the family in 1944. I brought this PX home to enjoy with our Basque cheesecake at Cupitt’s; this pairing is a personal favourite. 

Dandelion Vineyards’ Wonder Room is more than just a tasting venue; it’s a culinary journey that showcases the best of what McLaren Vale has to offer, blending fine wines with expertly paired dishes to create a memorable experience that resonates with wine lovers and food enthusiasts alike. Big thank you to Berenice Axisa, who was an incredible host.

Longview Vineyards

My wine tour concluded with a visit to Longview Vineyards, nestled in the picturesque Adelaide Hills. This stunning estate mirrors Cupitt's in offering an all-encompassing experience with luxurious accommodations, a sought-after wedding venue, a welcoming restaurant, a well-appointed cellar door and a recently opened spa. 

Owner Peter Saturno hosted us; Longview crafts a variety of wines that parallel those we produce, including intriguing varietals like Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Grüner Veltliner, alongside classics such as Shiraz, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyard's recent expansion of dining options in their restaurant, now open Friday through Sunday, offers guests a menu to enhance the wine-tasting experience.

Our tasting began with a vibrant sparkling Nebbiolo, a unique and delightful expression that was a first for me and an absolute pleasure to savour. Following this, we enjoyed the Macclesfield Chardonnay, a perfect complement to delicate white anchovies served with preserved lemon on toast. This exquisite pairing showcased the wine's crisp acidity and refined elegance. A standout moment was tasting the2021 Saturnus Nebbiolo, a wine characterised by its deep red cherry fruit, fragrant aroma, and lingering finish. Its complexity and balance were so impressive that I couldn't resist taking a bottle home to share with the family.

Conclusion 

This tour was not merely about tasting wines or visiting wine businesses; it was about delving into the stories behind them, understanding the dedication of the families who craft them, and appreciating the communities they nurture. It also provided an excellent opportunity to meet Carolyn, a passionate individual who shared her profound love for the wine industry and enriched my experience with her insights.

Carolyn and I exchanged countless stories, and I learned immensely from her generosity and warmth. After listening to her stories, I can see that anyone visiting her Cellar Door at Creation Wines would feel like they've stepped into her home, cared for and welcomed with open arms. We discussed at length the critical roles our staff play, the importance of their training, and how integral it is for them to fully embrace and understand our products, extending our familial ethos throughout the business. Despite challenging times, including long periods when the government prohibited alcohol sales, Carolyn kept all her staff employed, underscoring the resilience and strong principles that guide her business. Although our business environments differ, the core principles of community and staff support resonate deeply with each other, making me eager to visit Creation Wines in South Africa.

Special thanks also go to Glenn Martin; sharing wines and stories with him was a delight. Observing another family's dynamics and their passion for winemaking was genuinely inspiring. Glenn's father, JC, has tasked him with completing ten vintages away from Creation Wines before he steps into the winemaker's shoes—a challenge Glenn eagerly embraces. Every winery we visited invited him to conduct a vintage, indicating his high regard for his knowledge and enthusiasm. I hope the beautiful surf beaches of Shoalhaven might entice him to consider a vintage in Ulladulla during his journey.

I am immensely grateful toRobin Shawfor orchestrating this enlightening experience. The connections I made and the knowledge I gained are invaluable. Robin tours South Africa annually and offers expert wine tourism training. For anyone looking to enhance their business within this niche, I highly recommend reaching out to Robin for guidance—her expertise and connections in wine tourism are unparalleled. Follow her Instagram as she embarks on a study tour to South Africa this May. I look forward to potentially joining Robin on a future trip to South Africa and am deeply thankful for her inviting me to participate in this incredible journey.